![]() ![]() #FLYCUT DOES NOT LAUNCH FULL#I need to change out the rear tips for quads since I put a full SAP on the car as well, but the car has been in storage for a few years. I also put on a first gen West Coast Svede and a 100mm MAF. #FLYCUT DOES NOT LAUNCH INSTALL#If I had to do over again I would install the 1-7/8" headers as there is no downside to going larger. I bought the car with the 1-3/4" kooks headers on it, but it had catted mids which I removed for no cats and true 3" mids (the early models were necked down to 2.5" at the rear) and have a 3" T-304 stainless SpinTech exhaust with the short "Pro Street" mufflers and an X-pipe. I am unconcerned about DCR as that is just theory. I calculated my SCR to be around 11.2:1 as well. 617 int and exh lift at the valve using stock rockers fitted with a trunion kit. It is a very large split duration, which is normal and proven for these heads even though a couple of people got lucky with some no split or very small split in that thread. My cam is a custom grind from the same guy that designed/built the heads. I used a Rollmaster chain and gears and all ARP hardware and used the factory Oil Pump.Īn afternoon of tuning on the dyno, I ended up at ~475 HP and ~425 lb ft of torque, but still to this day I do need to refine the tune as she still has more to give.Įverything you would want to know is in the stickied L92 thread, but I am sure you know that already. This is not only caused by electrical malfunction (circuits open or shorted) but by mechanical malfunction such as control valve sticking, improper solenoid valve operation, etc. I also measured for pushrods and ordered on Wednesday from Manton, received them on Friday. This malfunction is detected when the A/T does not shift into 6GR position as instructed by TCM. because if its not one thing its ath taxes etc.LOL Many on here used to swear they had to lash to a LS7 spec and had noisy typewriters.as its. I degreed my cam in on the stand and then measured for valve clearance and found I did not need to flycut. A smart installer does not lash tighter on a LS or its going to tick more and sure be tighter for higher revs but less worry about valve float means more pressure and more wear worries. My heads were worked by someone that is not allowed on this site anymore, milled. When I reassembled, I put the engine back in first, then put the trans in from the bottom. I would still pull the engine to do it again, but I would pull the transmission from the bottom. I also replaced my rod bolts with ARP units. I pulled the engine and transmission together as one unit, but I would not do that again as it does not come out real clean on a pristine car which mine still is at only 2500 miles. I did all of this on my car at 1700 miles back in 2010, including the clutch but a bit more than you have planned. ![]()
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